Free & Cheap Car History Checks

Advice on how you can do your own background research into the history of a car for free and details of how much a car history check costs from major providers such as HPI, The AA and My Car Check.

Where can I get a car history check from?

There are many companies offering car history data checks and we’d recommend using one, even if a used car seller says this has already been carried out. Better to spend a few pounds and be safe than sorry – and checks can be carried out online, via mobile phone or by apps on tablet PCs.

Can I check a car's MoT and mileage history for free? 

You can't get a full car data history check for free in its entirity, but you can get a surprising amount of information on the background of a car for free - including its MoT history, mileage and whether it has road tax. To get all this information, you simply need to enter your registration number 

All you need is the vehicle's registration number which means you can check online before you travel to see the car. If the registration is covered up in photographs, contact the seller and ask for it. If they seem reluctant then this should set alarm bells ringing.

It will give you all the basic information such when it was first registered.

More usefully, it will tell you if the car is subject to a statutory off road notice (SORN), plus if it has a valid MoT and when it expires. Any car that is SORN'd should not be on the road as it may not have an MoT and it won’t be taxed.

What other car history check searches can I do for free?

If you have the time, you can also fill in a V888 request form and send it to the DVLA to find out information about the registered keeper of a car.

This will give you the registered keeper’s details and those of previous owners, which again helps you establish a fuller picture of the car’s background. You can also request information the DVLA may hold about you if you are about to sell a car and want a clean bill of health for any buyer carrying out these checks.

Why get a car history check?

At their most basic, a car history data check will tell you the make, model and confirm the registration belongs to a car of that description. That's all info you can get from the DVLA so it's not worth paying someone else for.

What accident damage will a car history check highlight?

When it comes to repairs after accident damage, this is divided into four categories, starting with D as the lowest for small dents and scrapes.

Category C damage is more major, but was deemed cost-effective to repair by the insurance company. These cars will generally be cheaper than non-damaged cars for sale to reflect the repair work on them and the higher insurance premium you will have to pay.

A Category B damaged car is one that has suffered severe impact, but there are parts that can be salvaged to use on other vehicles. Cars that fall into Category A are complete write-offs and must be scrapped so they can never be put back on the road. There is also a Category F class for cars that have been damaged by fire.

However, from 1 October 2017, the old Category A, B, C and D were replaced by:

• A: Scrap
• B: Break
• S: Structurally damaged repairable
• N: Non-structurally damaged repairable

The new categories reflect the complexity of total loss vehicles more clearly, with the focus on structural damage rather than cost of repair.

Cat A (scrap) and B (break) remain unchanged, while S (structural damage) and N (non-structural damage) replace the old C and D categories.

All of these checks are readily available online and over the phone, and those from the DVLA are free, so there’s no excuse for not doing your homework. Make some basic checks and your dream car will not turn into a nightmare.

Where can I get a valuation for my car?

If you're buying a car, you'll not only want to check out its background with a car history check, but also make sure that you're not paying over the odds. We offer a quick and easy valuation check service - simply enter the registration number of the car below to get yours.

Ask HJ

How can I find out if a car I bought was previously involved in an accident?

How do I check if my car was involved in an accident?

Do a HPI check (https://www.hpi.co.uk/car-write-off.html) or do an Experian check (https://www.experian.co.uk/automotive/autocheck.html). There are plenty of services that will check a used vehicle's history, but the best ones will check for accident history, whether there's outstanding finance, mileage discrepancies that could signify the car has been clocked etc.

Answered by Georgia Petrie

More Questions

What scams should I be aware of when buying a car?

No matter how careful you are when buying a used car, there are plenty of dishonest sellers out there willing to take your money without providing what they promise. There are also lots of dodgy sellers who will sell you a car that isn’t what it’s meant to be.

The bottom line with any car selling scam is you could be left seriously out of pocket, without a car and - at worst - paying off the cost of the car but with nothing to show for it. Here’s our rogues rundown of the top five car selling scams.

Scam one: Clocking

It’s the oldest car selling scam in the book, but that doesn’t stop clocking from being very profitable for dishonest car sellers. Even the digital mileage counters used by most modern cars don’t stop crooked sellers from making a car appear less leggy than it really is. As modern cars are now capable of very high miles with little visible wear and tear, clocking is as attractive as ever to criminals and easily managed with a laptop computer.

Check with the DVLA for previous MoTs that show the car’s mileage and check the service history of the car to see if it tallies with the claimed mileage. It’s always worth checking the steering wheel, driver’s seat and pedals for wear that is disproportionate to the claimed mileage as a sign of a clocked car.

Scam two: Cloning

Car cloning is a grey area when it comes to car history checks, with the majority of companies refusing to offer any form of protection against it. This is because it’s almost impossible to tell a clone apart from the genuine article, without a physical inspection. 

If you do pay for a history check that provides some form of guarantee against car cloning then it’s vital that you read the terms and conditions. In all likelihood, the small print will insist that the car buyer makes some basic but important checks before they purchase the vehicle. And like any insurance product, if you don’t abide by the terms and conditions the policy will be invalid.

First and foremost, the vehicle should be viewed at the address that’s listed on the V5C logbook document. You should also ask to see two forms of ID from the seller, with car history check firms usually insisting on a photo card driving licence and utility bill. This will provide a trail back to the owner, should anything go wrong.

You will be asked to check that the VIN (vehicle identity number) on the V5C matches the number on the vehicle - you can usually see the VIN on the dashboard and/or plate on the car somewhere. Check for signs of damage or alteration to the VIN number. And look at the numberplate for evidence it has been recently removed or replaced.

Finally, never assume that the logbook V5C document is proof of ownership. It isn’t. The V5C is only a registration document, and only a signed purchase receipt from the previous owner constitutes as legitimate proof of ownership. A legitimate, honest seller should (at the very least) provide details of the vehicle’s previous owner. Many sellers will have a comprehensive history file that tracks the vehicle’s history all the way back to the original dealership.

Scam three: Stolen cars

Stealing a modern car is very difficult without the keys thanks to high tech security technology that comes as standard with most cars now. This means thieves are more likely to steal the keys to the car so they can just unlock it and drive off, which means they also have the keys to give to you as supposed proof they own the car. Stolen cars are often advertised at temptingly low prices, which can blind some buyers to a car’s dubious credentials.

This is where a car history data check will help to show up the car as stolen, so long as the owner has logged it with police and are not on holiday for two weeks. If you buy a stolen car, it will be taken from you by the police and your insurance company may not compensate you for your lost money.

So it pays to carry out a history check but also to do some research of your own via the DVLA website or on the phone. Make sure the owner’s details match the seller’s and ask to see all of the car’s documents and service history. A genuine seller will have all of this prepared for selling the car and be happy to show it to you. If the seller is reluctant, be on your guard and prepared to walk away.

Scam four: Money transfers

The internet means many buyers look much further afield when looking for their next used car. This means crooked sellers take advantage of this and ask for you to send money to a third party as a token of good faith that you will turn up to view the car. If a seller says you can pay a deposit so they don’t sell it to someone else, you should be suspicious.

A common scam is for the seller to advertise the car at a cheap price to attract buyers who will be blinded by the great deal and not do their research. They will even provide you with a registration number that checks out properly with car history data checks, but this car will not belong to them - the car they have advertised will likely be fictitious.

If you’re asked to send money to a third party who will hold the cash until you agree to buy the car, the chances are you will have been scammed the moment you send the money. Even if you are asked to send the money to a family member you trust and only have to send a copy of the receipt to the seller as proof, the criminal seller can often still access the cash and defraud you.

Often this sort of scam involves a car that is abroad at the time of the sale, or too far away for you view before paying in cash, by cheque or by banker’s draft. Another warning sign is poor spelling and grammar in any emails exchanged with the seller as many of these criminals are based abroad.

Scam five: Dealers posing as private sellers

Car dealers and private sellers must both abide by the law, but some unscrupulous dealers will pose as a private seller to avoid their legal commitments. A dealer must tell you about any faults with the car by law and provide a three month warranty. A private seller is not obliged to do either of these things, though they cannot lie to you because the Sale of Goods Act gives you protection against this.

A dishonest dealer will ask you to meet them somewhere neutral, such as a supermarket car park. If they are not willing to show you the car at their home address, you should ask why and be suspicious. A history data check may not show up a dealer as a registered keeper, but asking about the car’s history and service record should show up any inconsistencies.

One of the oldest tricks on the book when phoning up about a used car is to say: ‘I’m phoning about the car for sale.’ A private seller is unlikely to have more than one car for sale, while a dealer will have several. Dishonest dealers may have a mobile phone specifically for each car they are selling so they know which car you are asking about.

Ask lots of questions about the car’s background and history – how long they have owned it, why are they selling, when was it last MoT’d and serviced, how worn are the tyres are, etc. A real private seller will know the answers off the top of their head. When you view the car, check the last registered keeper is the person selling the car. Some sellers will say they are selling the car on behalf of a friend or relative. If that’s the case, ask to speak to that person and ask why they are not selling for themselves.

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